Why go
Rome is not a museum city — 2.7 million people live and argue in it — but the layers are unusually visible: a 2nd-century temple holding up a 16th-century palazzo holding up a wine bar. Book the big sites, then leave whole afternoons unplanned.
Five things to do
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01
The Pantheon at opening
Empty for about twenty minutes.
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02
Appian Way by bike
Sunday, when the road closes to cars.
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03
Testaccio market
Then a supplì, standing up.
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04
Borghese Gallery
Two-hour slots, booked weeks ahead.
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05
The Aventine keyhole
A three-country view through a door.
Neighbourhoods
Trastevere
Ivy, cobbles and the best evening walk in the city.
Testaccio
The old slaughterhouse district, and Rome's serious food quarter.
Monti
Artisan shops between the Colosseum and Termini.
EUR district
Mussolini's rationalist suburb, oddly compelling.
Getting around
Buy the transport card on arrival — every city on this list has one, and it is cheaper than single fares within about four journeys. Walking covers more than the map suggests: most of the districts above are within thirty minutes of each other on foot.
Taxis and ride apps are worth it late at night and when you are carrying luggage. Everything else is faster on the metro, the tram or the ferry, in that order.
Where to eat
The rule that holds in Rome is the rule that holds everywhere: eat at the busy place, at the hour the locals eat, and order the thing the kitchen makes most of. Reserve for dinner in the districts above; lunch rarely needs it.
Two days here
- Morning: The Pantheon at opening
- Afternoon: walk Trastevere
- Evening: Testaccio market
- Day two: The Aventine keyhole
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