Why go
Istanbul's geography does the work: a strait through the middle, ferries as commuter transport, and a skyline of domes and minarets that reads much as it did in prints from 1650. The Asian side is where locals live and eat best.
Five things to do
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01
Bosphorus ferry to Anadolu Kavağı
Ninety minutes each way.
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02
Hagia Sophia and the Basilica Cistern
Booked slots, early.
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03
A Turkish breakfast in Kadıköy
Twenty small plates, two hours.
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04
Süleymaniye Mosque terrace
The best free view in the city.
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05
Grand Bazaar, then the Spice Bazaar
Trade first, then eat.
Neighbourhoods
Sultanahmet
Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, the cisterns.
Karaköy & Galata
Coffee, design shops, the tower.
Kadıköy
The Asian side's market and bar quarter.
Balat
Coloured houses, antique shops, Sunday quiet.
Getting around
Buy the transport card on arrival — every city on this list has one, and it is cheaper than single fares within about four journeys. Walking covers more than the map suggests: most of the districts above are within thirty minutes of each other on foot.
Taxis and ride apps are worth it late at night and when you are carrying luggage. Everything else is faster on the metro, the tram or the ferry, in that order.
Where to eat
The rule that holds in Istanbul is the rule that holds everywhere: eat at the busy place, at the hour the locals eat, and order the thing the kitchen makes most of. Reserve for dinner in the districts above; lunch rarely needs it.
Two days here
- Morning: Bosphorus ferry to Anadolu Kavağı
- Afternoon: walk Sultanahmet
- Evening: A Turkish breakfast in Kadıköy
- Day two: Grand Bazaar, then the Spice Bazaar
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