Why go
Bangkok's centre of gravity is still the Chao Phraya. Take the orange-flag boat instead of a taxi and the city rearranges itself: temples on one bank, teak houses and canal life on the other, skyscrapers behind both.
Five things to do
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01
Orange-flag river boat
The length of the city for pocket change.
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02
Wat Arun at sunset
Porcelain-encrusted, best seen from the far bank.
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03
Chinatown street kitchens
Charcoal woks on the pavement.
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04
Jim Thompson House
Six teak houses and a disappearance.
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05
Bang Krachao
A green island loop, twenty minutes by ferry.
Neighbourhoods
Rattanakosin
The Grand Palace, Wat Pho and the amulet market.
Thonburi
Canals, floating shops and the artists' quarter.
Chinatown (Yaowarat)
The best street food in Asia after 6pm.
Ari
Low-rise cafés, galleries and no tour buses.
Getting around
Buy the transport card on arrival — every city on this list has one, and it is cheaper than single fares within about four journeys. Walking covers more than the map suggests: most of the districts above are within thirty minutes of each other on foot.
Taxis and ride apps are worth it late at night and when you are carrying luggage. Everything else is faster on the metro, the tram or the ferry, in that order.
Where to eat
The rule that holds in Bangkok is the rule that holds everywhere: eat at the busy place, at the hour the locals eat, and order the thing the kitchen makes most of. Reserve for dinner in the districts above; lunch rarely needs it.
Two days here
- Morning: Orange-flag river boat
- Afternoon: walk Rattanakosin
- Evening: Chinatown street kitchens
- Day two: Bang Krachao
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