Why go
Dubai is easy to caricature and more interesting than the caricature: an old creek where abras still ferry workers for a dirham, a Gujarati and Iranian merchant history in Deira, and a desert that starts twenty minutes past the last interchange.
Five things to do
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01
Abra across the creek
One dirham, five minutes.
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02
Burj Khalifa at sunset
Book the observation slot early.
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03
Friday brunch
An institution, in its own way.
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04
Desert dunes at dusk
Choose an operator that avoids wildlife areas.
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05
Global Village in winter
Ninety countries in pavilion form.
Neighbourhoods
Deira & Bur Dubai
Gold and spice souks, creek crossings.
Al Fahidi
Wind-tower houses and the coffee museum.
Alserkal Avenue
Warehouse galleries in Al Quoz.
Hatta
Mountain pools and dams, ninety minutes inland.
Getting around
Buy the transport card on arrival — every city on this list has one, and it is cheaper than single fares within about four journeys. Walking covers more than the map suggests: most of the districts above are within thirty minutes of each other on foot.
Taxis and ride apps are worth it late at night and when you are carrying luggage. Everything else is faster on the metro, the tram or the ferry, in that order.
Where to eat
The rule that holds in Dubai is the rule that holds everywhere: eat at the busy place, at the hour the locals eat, and order the thing the kitchen makes most of. Reserve for dinner in the districts above; lunch rarely needs it.
Two days here
- Morning: Abra across the creek
- Afternoon: walk Deira & Bur Dubai
- Evening: Friday brunch
- Day two: Global Village in winter
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